Chicago Magazine Tastemaker Feature

I am thrilled to be featured as a tastemaker in the June issue of Chicago Magazine!

 You can click the link below to see the article in full:

http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/June-2014/Founder-and-Owner-of-Ladybug-Vintage-Stuart-Mesires-Shares-Her-Favorite-Things/

Chicago Magazine also made a video to accompany the article. You can click the link below to see the video:

http://www.chicagomag.com/video/Taste-Makers-My-Favorite-Things/2014/Stuart-Mesires/

Charles James

photo: Cecil Beaton

This Summer I am hoping to get to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York to see the Charles James exhibit before it closes in August. The Chicago History Museum put on an exhibition about James in 2011/2012 and ever since then, I have been obsessed by his amazing garment construction. 

Charles James' Butterfly Dress, 1954 from the collection of the Chicago History Museum. 

Charles James (b. July 18, 1906 - d. September 23, 1978) is known as “a designer’s designer”. He is an often over-looked fashion genius who was known for his incredible ability to “sculpt” garments. His approach to designing was much like that of an architect. He constructed garments which were so structured, they could practically stand on their own. 

This illustration of James' "Four-Leaf Clover" ball gown  details the gown's construction. The garment is constructed from thirty pattern pieces and has a four-layered skirt. Drawings by Bill Wilkinson from the 1982 book,
The Genius of Charles James.

The garments he created are often just as beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside. James was such a perfectionist that if a garment had one stitch wrong, he would tear the entire piece apart and re-work it. Diana Vreeland is quoted as saying, “He would rather work and rework a beautiful dress ordered for a certain party than have that dress appear at that party.”

James' Four-Leaf Clover Dress, 1954, from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

James had a strong Chicago connection. He was born in England to an English military officer, Ralph Haweis James and Chicago heiress, Louise Brega James. In 1924 James was expelled from the Harrow School in England and was sent to stay with his mother’s relatives in Chicago. In 1926 James opened a hat-making shop at 1209 N. State Street in Chicago under the name, Charles Boucheron. It was very successful with the wealthy, fashionable ladies of Chicago and he opened two more stores in Chicago before moving to New York City in 1928.

One of James' hats featured in Vogue in 1930. Photo: Cecil Beaton 

Not many examples remain of James’ hats. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has borrowed two hats from the Chicago History Museum for it’s current exhibition. The hats are pictured below. They date from 1928 and belonged to Mrs. H. Pauling Donnelley of Chicago who was a friend of James’ mother.

Two felt hats designed by James in 1928. From the collection of the Chicago History Museum. Photo from the Chicago History Museum publication, Charles James: Genius Deconstructed.

James opened a store in Manhattan in 1928 and quickly moved on to designing apparel. James is best known for the constructed gowns that he created in the 1930s, 40s and 50s. He counted among his clientele, Marlene Dietrich, Babe Paley, Austine Hearst, Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney, and Millicent Rogers - his biggest supporter. 

Millicent Rogers wearing Charles James.

James influenced the work of many designers including, Christian Dior, Galanos, Pauline Trigere, Balenciaga, Arnold Scassi, and Halston. Christian Dior was said to have credited James with having inspired his, “new look”.

Christian Dior 1947 - part of Dior's "new look"

Unfortunately James came to a tragic end. He was known to have a very difficult personality and to have been bad at managing his money. He died penniless at the Chelsea Hotel in Manhattan in 1978.

photo: Bill Cunningham

U.S.A.!

Feeling the Olympic spirit today!

Valentine's Baubles

 Vintage Yves Saint Laurent and Christian LaCroix heart baubles for Valentine's Day. Available at space519 (http://www.space519.com).

Dawning of the Age…..

This is a photo of one of my favorite Birthday presents - a vintage Aquarius paperweight from Baccarat. The zodiac series was discontinued about 30 years ago. I'm now on a hunt to find more from the series - maybe one for my moon sign and one for my rising sign?

Happy Holidays 2013!

Happy Holidays! oxo Ladybug

I am SO beyond thrilled that Ladybug Vintage is featured today in the #11 issue of Gwyneth Paltrow's blog, goop!

      You can check it out here: http://www.goop.com/journal/go/256/goop-mag-11  

      or see below. Thank you, goop!   oxox Ladybug

goop mag #11

The Fashion  Archive

Ladybug Vintage Stuart Mesires' Ladybug Vintage is Chicago's best vintage business. Without a brick and mortar store of her own, she sells at several boutiques (including space519 for her jewelry finds) and is available by appointment only. When you’re lucky enough to book some time with her, you will find a trove of bright (she loves color) pieces from Schiaparelli to Lilly Pulitzer. Her real passion, however, is jewelry. Bright, playful, statement pieces from Ciner, Yves Saint Laurent and Kenneth Jay Lane at prices that are fair to say the least. Stuart's Picks:

80's Ciner "Perfect for this fall’s trend for long chains and coin jewelry. The length makes it very versatile and it can be worn alone or layered with other necklaces."	1972 Napier "Fox in the Forest" "I love not only that it is fall-themed but that it is so whimsical and unique. It was designed by Eugene Bertolli for Napier in 1972 as part of their ‘Endangered Species Series’ – this is a Grey Fox." 1967/68 Juliana "This necklace (and matching bracelet) is great for fall not only because of the trend for colored gemstones but because it's the perfect complement to fall’s midcentury fashion trend: nipped-waist coats, skirt-suits and full skirts."